LECTURE NOTES - SUBCULTURE AND STYLE

Young people have the freedom and the money to create their own styles.

SUBCULTURE
- Group of people with a culture (whether distinct or hidden) which differentiates them from the larger culture to which they belong.

Dogtown and Z-boys (2001)

Use and reincorporation of existing spaces.

Peggy Oki
No difference in how the men and women dress.

Ian Borden - Performing the City
Skaters changing the use of the city space.
Urban street skating is more 'political' thanthe 1970's.
Use of found terrains.
Resistance to commercialisation.

Southbank closure threat to skaters.
Possibly to be redeveloped.
Redevelopment would mean the loss of the skate spot.
Petition.
Proposal put forward for an alternative space.
Has had damming reviews.
Henry Edwards - Long Live Southbank
Impossible to design a space for skaters.

Lords of Dogtown (2005)

Replacement for family and school.

Parkour//Freerunning
Reuse of the city and the urban environment.
Yamakasi (2001)
Jump London (2005)


Rebellion of space being defined for you.
Acts as an interruption of the city.

Graffiti

Nancy McDonald
Escaping the traditional and pigeonholed identity that is set by society.
There is no differentiation between people.
Transcend racial divisions.

Miss Van
Can escape, except if you are female.
Overly sexualised.
Not played down.

Swoon (US)
More political.
Reclaiming of spaces.

Angela Mc Robbie and Jenny Garber.
Women in subculture.
Are they taking second place?
Women driven subcultures are questioned about the sexual inspiration.

Motorbike Girl

Hells Angels
Women rode on the back rather than driving.

Mods
Men and women wear the same style clothes.

Quadrophenia (1979)

Different levels.
Face - the origional.
Others were seen as not real mods.
Possible to have the style without the subculture.
Original subcultures are always political.

Hippy girl
- Middle-class

Bad Hippy//Good Hippy

Feminism being born at this time.

Riot Grrrl
- Underground punk movement.
- Based in Washington D.C.
- Politically driven.
- DIY music scene - about attitude rather than skill.
- Influenced by earlier punk bands.
- Reclaiming of the word girl.

WHAT MAKES A TRUE SUBCULTURE?

- Reference to certain aesthetics.
- Riot Grrrl - Early Punk - Dada Movement.

Media attention
- Grunge scene.
- Style without subculture.

Spice Girls
- Girl Power.
- Cartoon values.
- Cliche styles.
- Girls having a voice - lack of that in songs.

DICK HEBDIGE - SUBCULTURE: THE MEANING OF STYLE

Subculture become demoised in the media.
- Punk culture shown as anti-social.
- Seen and portrayed as offensive.

The commodity form.
- Turned into mass produced style.
- Impossible to have a subculture as will eventually be incorporated into the mainstream.

Punk Clothing
- Ripped clothes - anarchic.
- Anti-fashion statement.
- Clothes are then sold with rips.
- Removes anarchic nature.

A threat to the family?
- Womens Own (1977) - Punks and Mothers.
- Non political threat.

Zandra Rhodes 9ct White Gold Diamond Safety Pin Brooch
- Punks originally changed its use.
- Then incorporated into the high fashion consumer world.

21st Century Demonisation
- Bulletproof hoodie.
- Hoodie becomes associated with violence and youths.

Briocolage: Edwardian style - Saville Row - Teddy Boy
- Working class incorporation of middle class dress.

Roger Mayne (1956)
- Escape from the home.

Chris Steele-Perkins - The Teds (1979)

Racist use of the Nazi salute.

Gavin Watson - Skins (1980s)

Shane Meadows - This is England (2006)
- Subculture becomes his surragtte family.
- Also explores the political influence.
- National Front skinhead.
- Part of the group but detached through experiences and beliefs.
- Combo subordinates Milky as 'other' and turns to violence - can't comprehend it.

POST SUBCULTURES?
- The Post-Subcultures Reader.
- What is a subculture now?
- Are there still subcultures?